Preheat and prepare: Preheat your oven to 190°C (170°C fan) and line a 12-hole muffin tin with paper cases. The kitchen will begin to warm up, and that first hint of heat is a promise of what's to come.

Whisk the dry ingredients: In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the plain flour, caster sugar, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, ground cinnamon, freshly grated nutmeg, and fine sea salt. Watch as the colours meld together — the pale flour against the deep brown of the cinnamon and the speckles of nutmeg — it's a visual reminder of the flavour waiting to unfold.

Combine the wet ingredients: In a separate jug or bowl, whisk the buttermilk, eggs, melted butter, and vanilla extract until they are fully combined and look smooth and pale. You'll smell the vanilla cutting through the richness of the butter — a deeply comforting scent.

Bring it all together: Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients. Using a spatula, fold gently until just combined. A few lumps are absolutely fine — overmixing will make the muffins tough. The batter should be thick, dropping from the spatula in a soft, shaggy ribbon.

Fill the muffin cases: Divide the batter evenly among the 12 paper cases, filling each about three-quarters full. The batter will look mounded and slightly uneven — that's exactly how it should be. Tap the tin gently on the counter to settle any air pockets.

Bake until golden: Place the tin in the preheated oven and bake for 18-20 minutes. At around the 12-minute mark, your kitchen will fill with the unmistakable aroma of cinnamon and toasted butter. The muffins are ready when they are golden brown on top and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. The tops should spring back when lightly pressed.

Prepare the coating: While the muffins bake, stir together the caster sugar and ground cinnamon for the coating in a shallow bowl. Melt the 60g of butter in a separate small bowl. Set both aside near a wire cooling rack.

Coat while warm: Allow the muffins to cool in the tin for just 2 minutes — they need to be warm but not too hot to handle. Working with one muffin at a time, brush it all over with the melted butter (or dip it directly if you prefer a more generous coating), then roll it in the cinnamon sugar until every surface is covered. The butter will hiss slightly as it meets the warm muffin, and the sugar will cling in a beautiful, speckled layer. Place on a wire rack to set.